Buenas!!
Every Sunday as I sit to write my thoughts from the previous week I take note of an unusual and definitely unexpected phenomena – Time is speeding up. My first days “in country” passed agonizingly slowly as I struggled with the smallest tasks of eating, sleeping, and not hardly communicating. But, as with all things, time passes and things change. I have learned and practiced and those improvements have allowed my Panamanian gaze to widen quite a bit. I no longer focus every ounce of energy to hear something> translate what I hear to English> develop my response in English> translate it in my mind into Spanish > speak my response> and then, do it again….50,000 times a day.
I have started to speak organically. Not well, but, I am being understood. Mostly. Err, often. Ok. It may still be a touch hit or miss.
Case in point.
My sweet sweet host Mom and I were chatting about our favorite breakfast foods from the United States. I told her I like waffles and hashbrowns. Which roughly translated into pancakes and French fries. The next morning I woke up to this!
Cross Country Travel…Alone.
My anxiety hit new levels when the main training activity for the week was explained to me. I was assigned to spend four days with another Peace Corps Community Manager and experience a “day in the life” of a Community Manager.
That, of course, I expected to be wonderful. I was anxious to finally understand what this thing is that I have signed up to do (note to all those thinking about the Peace Corps…It’s not what you think. In fact, after training in Miami, and a few weeks in country I’m still not sure what the experience, work, programs etc. are yet). The “day in the life” I expected to be very rewarding. Yet, my anxiety meter spiked high when I was told I’d be traveling across Panama for three hours with several bus changes…alone.
Note to all entripid travelers. The bus system in Panama can only loosely be called a system. It’s more akin to waiting for rain. It comes when it comes.
So, not having reliable, predictable buses with clearly defined stops and declared destinations scared the Panama out of me. Of the twelve or so volunteers in my cohort that live in the same valley as I do, I am the only one who can’t reliably speak Spanish. I voiced my travel concerns to PC leadership that if my cross-country travel hinged on my Spanish I was as likely to wind up on a fishing boat in China as I was to make it to my actual destination. So, it was arranged the the Community Manager I was to visit (Sarah- she’s been a Community Manager for about a year) would meet me halfway between my verdant valley and the community where she works.
Sarah is WONDERFUL!!
In the days leading up to my departure she and I chatted several times. She mentioned that she only had one mosquito net in which to sleep. I told her that I am very comfortable being the big or small spoon, so she could choose. I’ll spare the ink and paper and just remark that my anxiety about traveling across Panama amounted to much ado about nothing. I was able to navigate fine to the prearranged meeting place that Sarah and I had arranged. She scooped me up and whisked me another hour or so to her community.
This is Sarah’s house where I stayed for the weekend. Sarah’s house had running water, electricity, and an indoor bathroom. (Most volunteers only have one of the three). Also tiled floors are very, very nice by Panama standards. During the four days I spent with Sarah I felt spoiled by her accommodations and just a touch melancholic to return to my little valley.
Pasear – To sightsee. To take a walk. To wander in a hopeful manner that something wonderful might happen.
One of the first things that Sarah suggested that we do was go meet the entire community. So, bright and early she and I went pasear-ing through our town. (We walk through the neighborhood and talked with people on their front porch – soooo much fun). I made a lot of new friends. Most people I met thought Sarah and I were sisters. This activity impacted me deeply. Despite my language deficiencies I launched into my stock phrases over and over again with each passing porchful of people. The Panamanian people were so generous with me and indulged every one of my halting attempts to connect. It was AMAZING!
Later, we attended a community funeral which was similar to the funerals that we have back home. I joined the the precession as it ambled down a series of dirt roads to the cemetery. New Orleans pageantry it was not, but still a remarkable thing to witness.
Saturday night Sarah had organized a fundraiser with a youth group in the community. Armed with 30 generally positive porch conversations from the previous day, I was able to tell the kids my name, where I’m from, and that I like to dance. And, we connected! Dance is a big part of the culture in Panama. Despite the lack of formal dance training they could all dance really well. These kids were very shy but very eager to learn the hip-hop moves that they had only seen on TV. I taught them how to do simple moves and in turn they taught me bachata ( a very scandalous dance).
After our dancing break we started serving the food we cooked (arroz con pollo with chicha and hot chocolate) and played bingo!
Back To My Valley
The return bus trips were uneventful and I arrived back at my home midday on Sunday. I was one of the first of our cohort to come back. The bus ride back afforded me time to contemplate what I learned from my visit with Sarah about how the Peace Corps operates – the programs, the staffing, the infrastructure, how its all resourced, and how successful (or on occasion not) the programs are here in Panama. I am still triangulating what I know, and what I don’t. But, I will share that I can see a path to success. I have begun to map out how to make my community programs work well. I’ll write another post on that subject in days to come.
It was good to see my house Mom again. Having familiar things really is one of the things that anchors me during the lonely times. I am lucky that I have decent cell service where I live. I can generally get a call out to family and friends without trouble. (When I was staying with Sarah I had to take a walk to a community center to get WIFI 👎).
That’s it for this week. There is, of course, so much more to share. Feel free to DM me on any of my platforms. I’d love to share more about any of my weekly happenings!
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The Stuff That Is Just Fun
I forgot to include this in my last email but I am also extremely lucky to have a host family with a washing machine. Check me out washing clothes out in the sink before sticking them in the drying drum!
Me and two other volunteers from my cohort got a little treat from our host family. They took us to a local waterfall! We went cliff jumping and ate fresh pineapple. It was magical!!
More next week!!
Chao